by Jeph Johnson
I am not adept at surfing
and tsunami's seem to rise
only once every seven years or so
between the waves
it's hard to practice
in the tide pools
on the ebb tide
it's even difficult to fall off your board
when there's merely a rippling
there may come a day
when getting up quickly
will mean the difference
between life and death
so when the Hawaii Five-O
surf of seven years
quickly took me with it
I not only crashed to the water again
nearly unconscious
I had to ride the wave
to prevent being pulled under